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After cutting out my pattern pieces, the first sewing will be the centre gussets.


In the extant Greenland garments that feature these gussets, they are gorgeous, clever and intimidating!The shape of the gusset has obviously been designed to help negate the weak point at the top of most triangular gores. This is the place on a gown where there is very often a mend, or a patch. With the double point the stress on that area of the gown is spread out, and the tongue is like a built in patch.Here's a diagram of what they look like, and the shape of the slit that needs to be cut into the front and back pattern piece:


I tried a few times before cutting into my precious cloth:



The first thing to do is to determine where the bottom of the tongue will be on your front/back panel. Then, press your panel in half lengthwise, draw your semi circle (tongue), take a deep breath, re-measure and finally cut. You can then slice up the centre crease that you have pressed into the cloth and gradually angle the cut out to meet the top of your tongue curve (see diagram above).





When you open out your cloth, it should look like the diagram above. I then turn the fabric so that the back side is facing up and sew a few running stitches along the bottom curve of the tongue so that it can be gathered in to help turn up a small hem:





My next step is to press the sides of the slit open in hems that taper at the top:



Then I tack down these hems to stabilize them:



Here's the finished slit from the front, and pinned to the gore:







Repeat for the remaining front panel, and the most difficult part of the sewing is done.

Edited: June 25, 2017

After sewing the gusset behind insertion slit the back side of the gusset top looks like this (with dotted line indicating stitching):



I trim off the excess fabric, and then overcast the gusset (finished, front and back views):




Reference:Fransen, L., Norgaard, A., and Ostergard, E., Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norase Clothing Patterns, Aarhus Universtiy Press, 2011, p. 30.

Comments

( 4 comments — Leave a comment )
kes_zone
Jun. 24th, 2017 07:21 pm (UTC)
Interesting read!
matildalazouche
Jun. 25th, 2017 07:20 pm (UTC)
Thank you!
kes_zone
Jun. 26th, 2017 12:54 am (UTC)
We should get together for a drink and a chat some time soon!
zafania
Jun. 26th, 2017 09:05 pm (UTC)
it looks as though the gusset is made much more tricky by the frayable nature of your cloth, so you;ve done a good job. lovely spring green, btw
( 4 comments — Leave a comment )