Log in

No account? Create an account

Previous Entry | Next Entry

I finished my plain weave green and white cloth! After gentling washing it measures 41.5 cm wide and 8.8 m in length. Here's what almost 9 m of cloth looks like like on the rigid heddle loom, on the floor, and washed, pressed and folded!

The weave of the cloth is 1/1 plain weave and here are photos of the loom state cloth, and after washing on the "hand wash" cycle with a gentle detergent for woollen textiles.

The weave of the cloth has a subtle random pattern, that looks a bit like diamond twill in some places. I talked to a textile conservator about this and she thinks that it may have to do with different twists in the warp and weft, different tensions in individual warp threads, or just because of the differences between the warp (which was 3-ply and strong with very little stretch) and weft (single play, high twist). Whatever the reason, I really like it.

This fabric is going to be a second 12-month Herjolfsnes gown. It has taken about 7.5 months just to weave the fine cloth on my rigid heddle loom (about 100 hours of weaving). Now I will try to have it sewn and finished for the fall. My plan is to make a modified Herjolfsnes 41 gown. The biggest modification is the number of side panels. The Herjolfsnes 41 gown has 4 panels on each side and the overall hem circumference is over 4 m!! Given the limited (and slowly produced) yardage of my own cloth, I will only be able to have 2 side panels on each side. The pattern for Herjolfsnes 41 is not presented in Medieval Garments Reconstructed (Fransen, et al.), so I have decided to use similar shaping of the front and back panels as we see for Herjolfsnes 42. In that gown, there is no shaping for the arm scyes in those panels, they run in relatively straight lines from the floor to the top of the shoulder, and all arm stye shaping takes place with the curved tops of the side panels.

I am very excited to attempt, for the first time, the highly engineered centre gusset shaping and insertion. Rather than a single point (which is a stress point on a garment, often producing tears and holes), the gusset is shaped with round double points on either side, with a "tongue" extending down through the middle of the points. Herjolfsnes 41 has these beautiful, and intimidating gussets.

Another reason why I have chosen Herjolfsnes 41, is the long, buttoned sleeves. The sleeves each have a 27 cm slit from the wrist, with 16 buttons, spaced 1.5 cm apart. I think that this will look marvellous for a dress I intend to wear as an under gown beneath my yellow Herjolfsnes 42.

I am looking forward to sharing this journey!